A variety of natural and synthetic peptides have found widespread use in cosmetic compositions. Typically, peptides are included in cosmetics for their functional attributes such as enzyme inhibition, antiviral and antibacterial activity. Examples of the use of peptides in cosmetic applications are provided in the following literature.
U.S. Patent Publication No. 2005/0142092 A1 describes cosmetic compositions comprising hesperidin and an angiotensin converting enzyme (ACE) inhibitor dipeptide, such as H-Val-Trp-OH, or an oligopeptide, exemplified by H-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg-OH (SEQ ID NO: 1) or palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg-OH (SEQ ID NO: 2), stated to be useful for reducing bags and circles under the eyes.
U.S. Patent Publication No. 2005/0124545 A1 relates to the use of a family of peptides, such as Arg-Asp-Phe-Thr-Lys-Ala-Thr-Asn-Ile-Arg-Leu-Arg-Phe-Leu-Arg (SEQ ID NO: 3), in cosmetic compositions. The peptides are said to reduce cutaneous aging.
U.S. Patent Publication No. 2004/0229808 A1 discloses skin care compositions comprising a peptide of 5 to 22 amino acids having at least 50% phenylalanine, leucine, alanine, and lysine residues (FLAK peptides), for antibacterial, antifungal, anticancer, stimulation and proliferation applications, and wound healing applications.
U.S. Patent Publication No. 2004/0141939 A1 discloses peptides comprising the sequence Leu-Asp-Ala-Pro (SEQ ID NO: 4), as exemplified by Lys-Leu-Asp-Ala-Pro-Thr (SEQ ID NO: 5), and their cosmetic and dermatological applications. The peptides are said to promote adhesion between skin cells and cure or prevent symptoms of aging skin.
U.S. Patent Publication No. 2004/0120918 A1 provides cosmetic compositions comprising a polypeptide having anti-aging activity and a ceramide capable of providing an improvement in the anti-aging activity of the polypeptide. The peptides have an amino acid sequence of from 3 to 12 amino acids in length, such as Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly (SEQ ID NO: 6).
U.S. Pat. No. 6,821,524 describes the use of the small, naturally occurring polypeptide thymosin-beta-4 (TB4) in cosmetic compositions for improving the appearance of aged or damaged skin. Vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) and transforming growth factor beta 1 (TGFB) peptides are also stated to be useful for inclusion in the described cosmetic compositions.
U.S. Pat. No. 6,852,699 discloses the use of peptides based on the structure Val-Val-Arg-Pro (SEQ ID NO: 7) for treating undesired skin pigmentation.
U.S. Pat. No. 6,777,389 describes cosmetic compositions comprising peptides corresponding to or homologous with portions of endogenous elastin, including Valine-Valine-Proline-Glutamine (SEQ ID NO: 8), Valine-Alanine-Alanine-Arginine-Proline-Glycine (SEQ ID NO: 9), Leucine-Glycine-Alanine-Glycine-Glycine-Alanine-Glycine (SEQ ID NO: 10), and Valine-Glycine-Valine-Hydroxyproline-Glycine (SEQ ID NO: 11), and their use enhancing the appearance of skin suffering from problems associated with deficient elastin.
U.S. Pat. No. 6,620,419 discloses cosmetic compositions comprising polypeptides, exemplified by Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser (SEQ ID NO: 12), which are stated to induce synthesis of collagen and glycosaminoglycans to treat skin aging.
U.S. Pat. No. 6,372,717 discloses cosmetic compositions comprising synthetic lipophile derivatives of Tyr-Arg peptides, including N-Acetyl-L-Tyr-L-Arg-O-hexadecyl, for relieving sensations of irritation, mild pain, effects of heat, cold, abrasion or mechanical attacks on the skin.
U.S. Pat. No. 6,245,342 discloses the use in cosmetic compositions of peptides comprising His-Phe-Arg-Trp (SEQ ID NO: 13) derived from α-MSH (melanocyte stimulating hormone). The cosmetic compositions are stated to have melanogenesis-stimulating and anti-inflammatory properties.
U.S. Pat. No. 6,358,929 describes the use of a peptide containing the sequence Lysine-Proline-Valine as an additive in cosmetic compositions for preventing or reducing the intolerance reactions linked to a contact hypersensitivity.
U.S. Pat. No. 6,235,291 describes the use of the peptides sendide (Tyr D-Phe Phe D-His Leu Met NH2; SEQ ID NO: 14) and spantide II (D-NicLys Pro 3-Pal Pro D-Cl2 Phe Asn D-Trp Phe D-Trp Leu Nle NH2; SEQ ID NO: 15) as Substance P antagonists in cosmetic products for treating sensitive skin.
U.S. Pat. No. 6,235,291 relates to the use of a peptide (Gly Ile Gly Asp Pro Val Thr Cys Leu Lys Ser Gly Ala Ile Cys His Pro Val Phe Cys Pro Arg Arg Tyr Lys Gln Ile Gly Thr Cys Gly Leu Pro Gly Thr Thr Cys Cys Lys Lys Pro; SEQ ID NO: 16) having activity against bacteria, mycota and/or viruses and its use in cosmetic compositions.
Other peptide additives for cosmetic compositions include soya peptides for inhibiting elastase, plant peptides for inhibiting collagenase, copper complexes of peptides such as glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine, L-valyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine, and L-alanyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine (U.S. Patent Publication No. 2003/0148927), ovotransferrin peptides for inhibiting proteases which degrade elastin or collagen, and the anti-wrinkle peptides acetyl hexapeptide-3 having the structure acetyl glutamyl-glutamyl-methyonyl-glutamyl-arginyl-arginylamide (SEQ ID NO: 17; U.S. Patent Publication No. 2005/0118124 A1l), palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 having the sequence Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser (SEQ ID NO: 18).
Other interesting peptides are described in, for example, U.S. Pat. Nos. 6,566,330, 6,060,043 and 6,566,115, U.S. Patent Publication No. 2005/0187164 A1 and 2005/0148495 A1, and published PCT applications WO 2005/097060 A1 and WO 03/086313 A2, the disclosures of which are hereby incorporated by reference.
Despite the desirability of incorporating peptides in cosmetics, there are certain disadvantages associated with their use. For example, active peptide agents may suffer from poor efficacy of use due to, for instance, their conformational flexibility and/or the easy digestion of peptides by proteases at the sites of intended action. Further, efficacy may be hindered due to the difficulty with which peptides are transported across membranes such as skin and their poor solubility in many cosmetic vehicles. Additionally, the risk of immunogenic reaction to peptides also presents a concern in cosmetic formulation.
It is therefore an object of the invention to provide novel peptides for cosmetic applications which provide enhanced efficacy.
It is another object of the invention to provide novel peptides for cosmetic applications which provide resistance to proteolytic degradation.
It is yet another object of the invention to provide novel peptides for cosmetic applications which decrease the risk of immunogenic reaction.